After removing the deck sections from the spru trees, I remove all flash and excess plastic with an exacto knife and sandpaper, just as was done with the hull. The deck sections were carefully test fit and sanded where necessary for the best fit. The holes for eye bolts and other parts were drilled out at this time too. When I was satisfied with the fit, I painted the deck sections with Testors Model Master Flat Dark Tan FS30219 from a spray can and let them dry overnight.
A lot of modelers use the technique described in the instructions to bring out the wood grain relief of the deck but I have found a different method. After painting the deck, as I’ve already described, I lightly drag a colored pencil over it. In this case I used a Prismacolor dark umber # PC947. The pencil is sharpened and the side of the point is lightly dragged, length ways mostly, until completed. If I’m not satisfied with the way it looks, the pencil pigment can be removed with soap and water.
I glued two 1 inch long sections of 1/8 inch styrene tube to the bottom of the center deck section at both ends. This is to add support were the deck section joints are. Two A blocks were installed in the deck sections for the halyard rigging which will come later. Again, thin wire was twisted around the eye on the block and inserted thought the hole in the deck and super glued underneath. This also makes a very strong and neat installation.
The deck sections were now carefully put in place and liquid cement was applied along the deck-waterway seam. Building plastic models can sometimes be a challenging experience. My case in point is the deck installation. Despite all efforts I still had gaps in some places between the deck and waterway. One gap along the side of the poop deck required the use of small Dia. plastic rod for a filler. Then I filled the gap with white glue. After the glue dried I painted the filled areas to match the deck color. Although I painted the focs’l deck at this time, I did not install it. That will come later. After installing the deck sections, the pin rails were installed along the bulwarks. The masking of the area were they were glued did not turn out as good as I had expected. This meant touching up the paint in quite a few areas. The results were pretty good in the end but a bit more work then I had expected.
After removing the deck sections from the spru trees, I remove all flash and excess plastic with an exacto knife and sandpaper, just as was done with the hull. The deck sections were carefully test fit and sanded where necessary for the best fit. The holes for eye bolts and other parts were drilled out at this time too. When I was satisfied with the fit, I painted the deck sections with Testors Model Master Flat Dark Tan FS30219 from a spray can and let them dry overnight. 
A lot of modelers use the technique described in the instructions to bring out the wood grain relief of the deck but I have found a different method. After painting the deck, as I’ve already described, I lightly drag a colored pencil over it. In this case I used a Prismacolor dark umber # PC947. The pencil is sharpened and the side of the point is lightly dragged, length ways mostly, until completed. If I’m not satisfied with the way it looks, the pencil pigment can be removed with soap and water.
I glued two 1 inch long sections of 1/8 inch styrene tube to the bottom of the center deck section at both ends. This is to add support were the deck section joints are. Two A blocks were installed in the deck sections for the halyard rigging which will come later. Again, thin wire was twisted around the eye on the block and inserted thought the hole in the deck and super glued underneath. This also makes a very strong and neat installation.
The deck sections were now carefully put in place and liquid cement was applied along the deck-waterway seam. Building plastic models can sometimes be a challenging experience. My case in point is the deck installation. Despite all efforts I still had gaps in some places between the deck and waterway. One gap along the side of the poop deck required the use of small Dia. plastic rod for a filler. Then I filled the gap with white glue. After the glue dried I painted the filled areas to match the deck color. Although I painted the focs’l deck at this time, I did not install it. That will come later. After installing the deck sections, the pin rails were installed along the bulwarks. The masking of the area were they were glued did not turn out as good as I had expected. This meant touching up the paint in quite a few areas. The results were pretty good in the end but a bit more work then I had expected.
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