Building a Box Pt.4

The top is lowered straight down into place and masking tape is again used to secure it. I wrap it completely around a least three times. Finally, if the model is being sold and/or shipped I write some directions for the best way to open the box and remove the model without damaging it. Foam core board is ridged and strong yet very light. It's not the cheapest material to use either but I think it's worth it. When I ship models, I have this wrapped in bubble wrap, placed inside another box and back filled with Styrofoam peanuts. I've shipped about a dozen models this way and ,so far, the results have been good.

Building a Box Pt. 3

The glued corners were reinforced with duct tape. The model is slid inside the box and the fit checked. The hinged end was folded up and held in place with masking tape, wrapped completely around the box several times. Before I put the top on I added a few gussets for extra strength.

Building a Box Pt. 2

A hot glue gun is used to glue the sides and one end to the bottom of the box. The heat from the glue tends to melt the foam so I apply the glue sparingly along the edges and make a heavy fillet along the joints inside the corners. I have some old packing foam I cut into small sections and hot glue e to the ends for some extra padding. One end is attached with duct tape as a hinge to make it easier to get the model in and out. The parts that hold the model in place are the top

with several vertical pieces hot glued to its bottom side. When it's all assembled the model will sit very securely inside the box.

Building a box for Shipping, Transport or Storage.

Lets face it, models do not travel well. Keeping them safe while transporting them to model club meetings or shows deserves some thought. I've constructed boxes from foam core board to protect my models and so far the results have been pretty good. Here's how I do it. I start by measuring the base and the height to find the size box I'll need to build. Next, I draw the box on paper to calculate the sizes of the sides, ends, top and bottom. Using a straight edge, I layout the pieces onto the foam core board. The box pieces are cut out using the straight edge and a utility knife. I recommend using a new blade, since a dull blade tends to rip rather then cut.

The Model was attached.........

The model was attached with the wood screw I mentioned earlier and tightened down. Be careful here, not too tight. White glue is applied along the gap where the model and foil meet. A toothpick works good for getting the glue into the small gaps. After the glue is dried, paint the wake. I use testors Flat White. with pretty good results . Some modelers may like to experiment with different colors. Studying photos of ships to see how the wakes look for different ships and different conditions e helpful here. Again, step back and enjoy your accomplishment!

After the cement has dried........

After the cement has dried, use an exacto knife to trim away the excess foil . I extended the masking to the bottom of the base for painting. A spray can of Model Master Glossy Dark Sea Blue works best for me to paint the water surface. It is available in jars ,too. It takes two coats to get full coverage.After the paint dries, remove the masking and check out the ocean!

When the contact cement is tacky........

When the contact cement is tacky (read the directions on the can) carefully and slowly place the foil, glue side down, onto the base, using the edge traced before with your finger as a guide. Press down along the edge with your fingers to get a good bond, but just along the edge. Set it aside for a while to let it dry

Place the foil over the base.....

Place the foil over the base, it doesn’t matter which side is up, and trace the outline of the base into the foil with your finger. Lift the foil from the base and flip it over. Masking off the sides of the base will prevent sloped over cement from spoiling the appearance of the base. Apply contact cement to bottom surface of the foil and the top of the base. Contact cement gives off pretty strong ,flammable fumes and should be used only with very good ventilation. I use this stuff out in the garage to be safe.

Building a realistic display for waterline models

How to build a realistic display base for waterline models.
will b There are a lot of ways to do this. I’ve had good results with this. The front of a drawer, purchased at a local lumber yard or home improvement store , is the base itself. The routed sides will make for a nice finished look. I gave this one a light oak stain and a few coats of varnish. I’ll be using a wood screw to hold the model onto the base. I located where the screw will line up with the hole I already drilled in the bottom of the model and drilled and countersunk a hole in the base The water will be aluminum foil, roll out a piece of foil a little longer then the base. Carefully crinkle it up a few times and stretch it back out to give the surface its texture. Be careful and work slowly since the foil rips easy. If it rips a little its ok anyway but if it rips pretty bad just throw it away and tear off another piece and start again.