Welcome to my Web site

Welcome to my website. This site is for folks who build or would like to build plastic model ships. I’ve been building ship models for many years and I still get as much enjoyment from the hobby as I did when I started. If you are an occasional modeler, serious modeler or if you’ve been away from the hobby for awhile and are coming back, I think you will enjoy this site.

I chose Revells’ Cutty Sark as the launch project because there are a large number of these kits out there in closets, attics and modelers collections, waiting to be built. Also, this kit builds into a pretty impressive ship model, no matter where the modelers’ skill level is.

The plan is for this site to grow over time, featuring a different model about every month. Previous models will be archived for reference and new visitors to the site. As you may have already noticed, this site is written in a blog foremat with the latest post on top and previous posts in decending order. I hope that modelers will find this website enjoyable and useful and will visit often……………..John

Installing the Sterncastles and Decks


Since the hull is curved, I found it best to cement the rear of the sterncastles to the transom with super glue first. This will anchor the parts. Holding the sterncastles to conform with the hull, I again, used super glue to cement them in place. The decks were a real challenge but with persistence and a lot of super glue, I finally got them in place. I'll still need to fill gaps with white glue and touch up the paint.




Painting the Sterncastles

Camouflage Gray was painted on the sterncastle exterior, continuing the color of the upper bulwarks. Flat Brown was painted on the raised areas. The interior was painted Flat Insignia Red. Instead of cutting the shields from the flag sheet and gluing them onto the shields, I just painted them using colors selected randomly.

Installing the Forecastle Turrets


After painting the turrets, I installed them the best I could. Since the bulwarks between the turrets must curve to match the forecastle, this was a bit challenging. On the port side I cut the bulwarks away from the turrets and glued all three pieces on one at a time with super glue. Lots of super glue was used for this.

Installing the Beakhead


Parts 63 and 64 were painted and assembled separately. After the glue dried this sub assembly was cemented in place. The two sides of the beakhead were painted and installed with superglue. The port side did not line up with the hull as well as the starboard side. Some white glue will be needed to fill the gap.

Painting and Installing the Transome Pt.2



Installing the transom turned out to be a bit of a challenge. Cementing the main deck in place reduced the area of the stern so much that the transom would not fit. I had to dissolve the glue at the rear of the deck/hull attach point so I could spread the stern apart. The springiness of the hull at the stern required that I cement the transom one side at a time with a lot of super glue. Fortunately, this will not show on the finished model.

Painting and Installing the Transom Pt.1



Using the instruction sheet as a guide, I started painting the transom by painting all the raised surfaces first. After the paint dried I painted the flat brown hull color to the lower part of the transom and Camouflage gray to the upper part.

Forecastle

First, the beakhead bulkhead ( don't we just love this termanology) was painted and cemented in place.

The carriages for the cannons were painted dark brown. A bronze look for the cannon barrels was achieved by painting them dark brown and dry brushing with Testors copper. Super glue was used to cement them in place in the forecastle and the bulkhead and deck were cemented in place with liquid cement.




Installing the Main Deck


I painted the main deck Model Master Flat Dark Tan and dragged a dark Umber prisma color pencil over it to highlight the wood grain. After assembling the other parts of the deck, I fitted the deck in place inside the hull and cemented it with liquid cement. Masking tape was used to make the bow and stern of the hull conform to the deck profile.

The Hull Pt.4

The center parts of the hull were attached with liquid cement. I began painting the hull exterior with Testors Flat Brown and the interior with Model Master Flat Insignia Red. To get a wood grain look to the hull planking, I dragged a dark brown prismacolor pencil over the flat brown after it dried. Using the nut I attached to the bottom and a screw, the model was fixed to a piece of balsa to make handling easier. The threads from the holes in the hull look like they could be a major pain for the rest of the assembly so I pulled them taught and taped them to the bottom of the balsa board to get them out of the way for the time being. According to the instruction sheet, the top sections of freeboard are to be painted white. In cases like this I prefer to use Camouflage Gray instead. On relatively small models like this one, white looks very bright and stark. I think the camo gray looks more "in scale".

The Hull Pt.3


After tracing the outline of the hull onto a piece of .020" sheet styrene, I cemented it to the hull using liquid plastic cement. The stern piece is only installed temporarily to give the hull the correct profile and will be removed, therefore it's important to keep cement away from it. A few hours later, when the cement has dried, I trimmed away the excess styrene and sanded the bottom to the hull profile. For extra strength I applied a filet of 5 minute epoxy around the inner joint and added a nut for attaching the model to its' stand.