A flag comes with the decal sheet but, in this case, it was the wrong color and a bit too small to use. A Dutch flag is pretty easy to make so I made one out of paper and mounted it on a flagstaff of styrene rod. A last check for shinny spots from the super glue and touch ups with some clear flat acrylic and I called her done. This was a fun model to build. I found quit a few photos on the Internet to use for painting and detailing guides. Also learned a bit about ro-ros' and container ships.
I used a plain piece of oak for a mounting base with 3/8 inch basswood cut into short lengths for keel blocks. After gluing the keel blocks in place I drilled a hole through one for the mounting screw. Some oak stain and a few coats of varnish and the ship is ready to mount. Since orange seems to be a signature color for this ship line, I painted some sheet styrene orange and applied the kit supplied decal for a name plate.
I usually start the photo etched details by installing the stairs and ladders. I used the box art as a guide. This will establish where the breaks in the railings will be. The railings I install with white glue and start from the center of the model and work outboard. This keeps the installed railings safe from damage while I continue to install the outer railings. I left a break in the railings on the starboard side for the accommodation ladder. The Arizona pe set I used for this model has 3 accommodation ladders included, but all 3 are too short. I cemented the three together to make one long enough for this model. Stretched spru was used for the guide wires at the bow and for the ramp rigging. I painted the inside of the pool light blue and filled it with 5 min. epoxy.
Bringing realism to the superstructure required a few extra parts. I had a PE set on hand for the USS Arizona which is not the exact same scale but at 1/425 it's close enough for this. I used the PE doors and some other parts. I painted the inside of the s/s black to make the windows stand out and prevent an empty look inside. At this time I also drilled holes in the walkways for the support posts.
After the hull paint dried I sprayed on two coats of Testors Glosscoat to prep the hull for decaling. Decals are made to adhere best to a glossy painted surface. Decal set was also used to make it easy to move the decals into place. The decal sheet was printed by Scale Master and was, their usual ,high quality.
I cut the prop shaft in half because it was too long and hit a support inside the hull. I'll install the screw (prop) later. Right now it will probably get knocked off at some point during the painting and assembly. The rudder and support installed cleanly, I glued the rudder in place and used a little white glue to fill a small gap between the support and the hull.
The hull is one molded piece and is pretty clean except for a seam along the center line which was easily cleaned up with some 320 sandpaper followed by 600 sandpaper. Small sinkholes at each side of the bow were easily filled and sanded smooth. I plan to mount this model on a wood base when complete. So I drilled a hole in the bottom, large enough for a 10-32 screw and cemented a nut in place with 5 min. epoxy. I cemented all the main deck sections in place with liquid cement. All three sections fit great. A small gap at the bow was filled with white glue applied with a toothpick. This is a difficult area to fill with putty and sand, so some white glue applied sparingly does the trick. 
This is a kit of a RO-RO type of freighter. RO-RO is short for roll-on roll-off. Semi tractor trailers can be driven on and off from the ramp at the stern. Containerized cargo can also be loaded onto the deck. As you can see, the kit is molded in white styrene and includes a white metal screw (prop) and shaft. A decal sheet with green stripes for the sides and the ships name is also part of the kit. The hull is one piece.
When possible, I like to photograph my models in sunlight. The natural light gives a more realistic look to the whole thing.
The pennant ,which flies from the lateen yard, posed a problem. How to get it to fly as if in the wind? Instead of using thread to suspend it from the yard, I used thin wire, twisted into a loop. The loop was slipped over the top of the yard and cemented with super glue. After all the rigging was done( and the possibility of breaking of small parts), the stern lantern and swivel guns were cemented in place. I found some N gauge figures and placed them around the ship to give a sense of scale to the model. Since the model is presented as underway, the figures prevent it from looking like a "ghost ship".
