Welcome to my Web site

Welcome to my website. This site is for folks who build or would like to build plastic model ships. I’ve been building ship models for many years and I still get as much enjoyment from the hobby as I did when I started. If you are an occasional modeler, serious modeler or if you’ve been away from the hobby for awhile and are coming back, I think you will enjoy this site.

I chose Revells’ Cutty Sark as the launch project because there are a large number of these kits out there in closets, attics and modelers collections, waiting to be built. Also, this kit builds into a pretty impressive ship model, no matter where the modelers’ skill level is.

The plan is for this site to grow over time, featuring a different model about every month. Previous models will be archived for reference and new visitors to the site. As you may have already noticed, this site is written in a blog foremat with the latest post on top and previous posts in decending order. I hope that modelers will find this website enjoyable and useful and will visit often……………..John

Finishing Touches

A flag comes with the decal sheet but, in this case, it was the wrong color and a bit too small to use. A Dutch flag is pretty easy to make so I made one out of paper and mounted it on a flagstaff of styrene rod. A last check for shinny spots from the super glue and touch ups with some clear flat acrylic and I called her done. This was a fun model to build. I found quit a few photos on the Internet to use for painting and detailing guides. Also learned a bit about ro-ros' and container ships.





















Building Containers


Although the model looks great it still looks too much like a tanker with the large expanse of open deck. I decided to try my hand at scratch building cargo containers. After calculating the dimensions to make it in scale I found a rectangular piece of balsa wood that was the correct size. To fill the porosity of the balsa so I could glue onto it, I painted it with a few coats of varnish. I next cut 5 pieces of .020 sheet styrene to cover it and glued them on with white glue. After the glue dried I filled the seams with squadron green putty and sanded them smooth. Using a straight edge and a pencil I laid out the container shapes on the styrene. Tamyia tape was then used to randomly mask off containers for painting. Since the majority of containers seem to be a dark red color, I used Hull Red acrylic to paint the block. When the paint had dried overnight I remasked the randomly masked areas and painted them different colors. A Black Sharpie Marker and a straight edge was used to draw the lines which would identify each container. As a final touch, I used prizma color pencils to simulate some of the markings seen on containers. The whole thing was cemented to the deck with 5 min. epoxy.








Mounting the Model


I used a plain piece of oak for a mounting base with 3/8 inch basswood cut into short lengths for keel blocks. After gluing the keel blocks in place I drilled a hole through one for the mounting screw. Some oak stain and a few coats of varnish and the ship is ready to mount. Since orange seems to be a signature color for this ship line, I painted some sheet styrene orange and applied the kit supplied decal for a name plate.




Installing the Photo Etched Details

I usually start the photo etched details by installing the stairs and ladders. I used the box art as a guide. This will establish where the breaks in the railings will be. The railings I install with white glue and start from the center of the model and work outboard. This keeps the installed railings safe from damage while I continue to install the outer railings. I left a break in the railings on the starboard side for the accommodation ladder. The Arizona pe set I used for this model has 3 accommodation ladders included, but all 3 are too short. I cemented the three together to make one long enough for this model. Stretched spru was used for the guide wires at the bow and for the ramp rigging. I painted the inside of the pool light blue and filled it with 5 min. epoxy.








Installing the Superstructure


After dry fitting the superstructure I found I had to remove the port side locater to get the S/S to fit correctly. The whole thing went on pretty good with the large framework for the ramp as a locater. Liquid cement was used. Round rod of .030" dia. was used for the support posts. I inserted them down through the holes I drilled in the walkways and super glued them in place. After the glue set up I used a nail clipper to trim away the excess.