Anchors and Gunport Lids

A surprisingly accurate detail of this kit is that it contains the correct size and number of anchors. I started with the Best Bower installation on the starboard side. With the large anchor held by alligator clips, I used thick thread for the cable and knotted it per the illustrations in the book Historic Ship Models by Wolfram Zu Monfield, (This is the best book on the subject of ship models I've ever read.) and mounted all the anchors per the illustrations in the book. The end of the cable was inserted into the haws hole and secured with super glue. Instead of trying to tie the anchors onto the ship, I cemented them in place with super glue. This made them rigidly installed and the ropes holding them on easier to tie.

I have left the gun port lids off all along because the get knocked off so easily. With most of the model completed, it's time to cement them in place. Since everything is painted, super glue is the best choice for attachment. I use thick super glue for this after applying a little accelerator to the area above the gun port opening where the lids attach. I did manage to loose one lid so one was cut from a .020 sheet of styrene and installed.

Running Rigging Continued

The braces are installed last so as not to damage the previously installed rigging. As I stated earlier, the instructions a not clear on the running rigging. I looked up rigging for this period in some books I have and rigging instructions from other models. I think it's fairly accurate. The blocks for this kit are also weird. Instead of blocks, oval shape rings are used. I found it easier to tie the attachment threads on with the rings still on the spru. I usually have a pile of remnants when I get done rigging. This part of the model was done over a period of about 2 weeks.

Yards and Running Rigging

The yardarm attach points are usually too small to fit around the mast, so I use a round file to open it up. I've found my own way to rig running rigging that is different from the methods normally shown by kit instructions. I start by installing the inside running rigging first. On this model the spanker gaff rigging was first. For the yards, I install one yard at a time starting with the topmost mizzen yard and install its running rigging but not the braces. I work my way down the mast this way, then move to the main mast and again work from the top down installing the rigging one yard at a time until done.

Ratlines and Standing Rigging

I decided to use the kit supplied ratlines because they were quicker than making ratlines on a loom. The instructions say to slide the chain plate section through the slots in the channels but this was just about impossible. The next best install was to cement them to the channels. As far as bending the chain plates and inserting them into the holes in the hull, forget it. I bent the chain plates so they lined up with the holes and super glued them. I left the top of each ratline unattached to the mast until after the standing rigging was installed. This is because the standing rigging will pull the masts into alignment. Then I cemented the top of the ratline to the mast. Touched up the paint where needed.

The instruction sheet does not give very clear pictures or instructions for the standing rigging. So, I looked up some examples in ship model books and came up with some simple rigging for the period of this model. Black thread was used for all the standing rigging. Mast alignment, as always on plastic models, was tricky and as you can see not always successful.

Assembling Masts

Flat Black was used to paint the woldings and rings around the masts. Mast tops, crosstrees and doublings were painted flat black also. Assembling the upper masts through the tops and crosstrees was difficult on all the masts. A lot of trimming with an exacto knife and cleaning up with a file and sanding stick was required to get all the parts to fit. The rat lines would not go through the holes in the tops, so I cut off the extensions below the deadeyes and at the top of the ratlines. Lots of super glue was used to attach them but after touching up the paint they look ok.