The Hull Pt.2

The plan is to make and install a styrene bottom for the hull below the waterline. This will make the model more secure when mounted on it's display base. Besides cutting the hull at the waterline, the stern needs to be cut also. After cleaning up molding flash, I temporarily installed the stern with masking tape to mark where to cut. After cutting off the required material, I once again temporally attached the stern to the hull. This is to make sure the hull will have the correct contour when I use it to draw the shape on a piece of sheet styrene.

The Hull Pt.1

I started by removing the hull halves from the spru and cleaning up the molding flash and nubs from the spru tree. Masking tape was used to mark the waterline since it's difficult to see when cutting. A Dremel moto tool and a small cutting wheel makes quick work of the cutting. A razor saw works just as well but slower. The heat from cutting makes the cut edge a little messy, so a clean up with a file and sandpaper is necessary. I made sure the hull halves were aligned correctly and cemented them together.

Introduction

This is the Heller 1/200 scale Corona sailing ship. I haven't seen this kit built so I'm not sure how it will look. According to the box there are 173 parts, all molded in black styrene, and one vacuformed sheet of sails. I've decided to build this kit as a waterline model with the sails set.

Building a Box Pt.4

The top is lowered straight down into place and masking tape is again used to secure it. I wrap it completely around a least three times. Finally, if the model is being sold and/or shipped I write some directions for the best way to open the box and remove the model without damaging it. Foam core board is ridged and strong yet very light. It's not the cheapest material to use either but I think it's worth it. When I ship models, I have this wrapped in bubble wrap, placed inside another box and back filled with Styrofoam peanuts. I've shipped about a dozen models this way and ,so far, the results have been good.

Building a Box Pt. 3

The glued corners were reinforced with duct tape. The model is slid inside the box and the fit checked. The hinged end was folded up and held in place with masking tape, wrapped completely around the box several times. Before I put the top on I added a few gussets for extra strength.

Building a Box Pt. 2

A hot glue gun is used to glue the sides and one end to the bottom of the box. The heat from the glue tends to melt the foam so I apply the glue sparingly along the edges and make a heavy fillet along the joints inside the corners. I have some old packing foam I cut into small sections and hot glue e to the ends for some extra padding. One end is attached with duct tape as a hinge to make it easier to get the model in and out. The parts that hold the model in place are the top

with several vertical pieces hot glued to its bottom side. When it's all assembled the model will sit very securely inside the box.

Building a box for Shipping, Transport or Storage.

Lets face it, models do not travel well. Keeping them safe while transporting them to model club meetings or shows deserves some thought. I've constructed boxes from foam core board to protect my models and so far the results have been pretty good. Here's how I do it. I start by measuring the base and the height to find the size box I'll need to build. Next, I draw the box on paper to calculate the sizes of the sides, ends, top and bottom. Using a straight edge, I layout the pieces onto the foam core board. The box pieces are cut out using the straight edge and a utility knife. I recommend using a new blade, since a dull blade tends to rip rather then cut.

Finishing Touches

To make coils of rope, I wrap a few turns of thin rigging thread around the length of piece of 5/16" brass tubing. Then place a drop of white glue on each one to hold it in place. When the glue dries, cut the thread

between each coil and gently slide them off the tube one at a time. After trimming away the excess thread drape them over cleats and belaying pins, etc. Apply a drop of super glue to hold them in place. Finally, I look over the model and touch up the paint where needed and brush clear flat where the shine from super glue is visible.

Flags and Stand

After cutting out the flags and gluing them around the flag halyards, I used colored pencils to touch up the red and blue along the edges. Using my fingers to put some gentile folds in the flags gives them a billowing look. The stand, surprisingly, turned out to be a bit of a pain. It took some filing and trimming to get the model to sit correctly on it. I sprayed it glossy black and painted the letters with testors gold paint. For a base, a basswood plaque from a local craft store, was stained and varnished and the stand attached with 5 minute epoxy. The model was finally mounted to the stand with 5 minute epoxy also.

Anchors and Chain

Instead of actually trying to tie the anchors onto the catheads, I used a drop of super glue to cement them in place and then tied them. I blackened the anchor chain using metal toner but most of the black scraped off when I was running the chain through the haws hole. Maybee I didn't follow the instructions correctly. Next time I'll read them first. A piece of thin wire, run through the first chain link, makes it easier to thread the chain through the haws holes.

Foresail and Jibsail Rigging

Once again the instructions are very clear and pretty easy to follow. One side of the rigging is to remain slack but I couldn't get it to lye flat and it looked very messy. In the interest of a better looking model I decided to tighten up this rigging.

Rigging Jib Boom and Gaffs

The rigging of the jib boom and gaffs went very smooth, compared to some models. The instructions spell it all out pretty clearly.

Installing the Masts

With the sails and rigging blocks in place, the masts are ready to be installed. A few drops of liquid cement in the hole is enough for a secure attachment. Black thread, not included in the kit, was used for the stays. Instead of tying the stays to the deadeyes with a knot, I seized them as shown here. This makes it easier to adjust the alignment of the masts and removes the slack from the stays without over tightening.

Sails

Since a yacht is a prestige vessel, I felt the sails should have a clean, unweathered look. Light gull gray, sprayed from a can, got the look I wanted. A little darker then the white already on the masts but not too dark. A heated a needle (not red hot) easily punches holes in the sails where they will lace to the masts and booms. I poked a few holes in the extra plastic to get the feel of it before using it on the sails. Alligator clips held the jib boom in place on the jib while I laced it. When I laced this sail to the forestay, alligator clips were used again. For attaching the Fore, Main and Maintopsail to the masts, rigging thread was looped through the holes and a lot of extra left to make the knot tying a little easier. A needle threader works great for lacing the sails to the booms and gaffs.

Fitting the Masts

I found it necessary to cut about half of the bottom peg from both masts. They were too long and the masts would not go all the way down in the holes in the deck for a nice flush fit.

Booms and Gaffs

The booms and gaffs were painted white and assembled. at this point, before the sails are on, I like to attach the rigging blocks. It's much easier to do this now.

Main Mast

This just wouldn't be one of my models if I didn't loose or break something along the way. In this case, I somehow misplaced the main topmast. I fished around in my junk box and found a piece of spru that was the right diameter to fit through the mat top. I tapered it with sandpaper, cemented it in place and painted it white.

Bow Sprit and Mast Assembly

The bowsprit was glued together, the seam cleaned up and painted white. After test fitting it to the bits, I had to whittle down the square end, that fits into the bits, to get it to fit correctly. the mast halves were clamped together and cemented with liquid cement. After this dried, I cleaned up the seam first with a file and then medium and fine sanding sticks. The sail hoops were painted Testors Wood and the masts were painted Testors Flat Brown.

Hull and Deck Painting and Assembly Pt.8

The remaining deck details were painted and assembled. Per the instruction sheet, I painted most items white. The glass parts of the skylights were painted black and filled with clear parts cement which looks like glazing. To simulate brass, I painted the frames of the rear skylights gold and super glued small lengths of brass wire across them. I didn't want to tie the block to the iron horse (#18). So I bent a piece of small brass rod into a u shape and slid it through the eye of the block. Super glue was then used to attach it to the hull. The rudder halves were glued together and to the post on the stern with the top of the rudder sticking through the hole in the deck. The tiller was painted dark brown and installed. The cockpit seating was also painted dark brown and the raised relief highlighted with a black wash and tan dry brush. since the rudder is glued in place it will not move. That's OK because movable parts on a model invite handling which leads, eventually,to damage.

Hull and Deck Painting and Assembly Pt.7

Time to install the deck. I applied a bead of Testors liquid cement onto each support in the hull and worked the deck into place. When it was located correctly, I brushed liquid cement along the seam of the deck and waterway. Rubber bands clamped the whole thing together.