mentioned earlier and tightened down. Be careful here, not too tight. White glue is applied along the gap where the model and foil meet. A toothpick works good for getting the glue into the small gaps. After the glue is dried, paint the wake. I use testors Flat White. with pretty good results . Some modelers m
ay like to experiment with different colors. Studying photos of ships to see how the wakes look for different ships and different conditions e helpful here. Again, step back and enjoy your accomplishment! 
available in jars ,too. It takes two coats to get full coverage.After the paint dries, remove the masking and check out the ocean!
while to let it dry
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How to build a realistic display base for waterline models.
will b There are a lot of ways to do this. I’ve had good results with this. The front of a drawer, purchased at a local lumber yard or home improvement store , is the base itself. The routed sides will make for a nice finished look. I gave this one a light oak stain and a few coats of varnish. I’ll be using a wood screw to hold the model onto the base. I located where the screw will line up with the hole I already drilled in the bottom of the model and drilled and countersunk a hole in the base The water will be aluminum foil, roll out a piece of foil a little longer then the base. Carefully crinkle it up a few times and stretch it back out to give the surface its texture. Be careful and work slowly since the foil rips easy. If it rips a little its ok anyway but if it rips pretty bad just throw it away and tear off another piece and start again.
around the length of spru I was using for a halyard. I finally folded both sides and glued them together. I then used a drop of super glue to attach the flag to the halyard. Finally, the last assembly items are the boats hanging from the davits. Just to breakup the monotony of the light gray, the boats were painted a darker shade of gray. I used a small drill bit to enlarge the attachment holes in the boats since I wasn't sure if they would line up with the davits. This turned out to be a big help and the boats were installed with thick super glue and a little accelerator.
I like to use stretched spru for rigging on small scale ships like this one. There are plenty of outher materials available but I've had good luck with spru, so far. As always, i start from the inside and work outboard. A pair of dividers is used to measure the length I'll need for each piece. White glue, mixed with water (50/50) works great for attaching the rigging. Using tweezers to hold the cut legnth od spru, dip the ends inthe glue and place it where you want it. I usually cut the spru a little bit long and and install it with the excess lenght in a convient place so I can trim it off after the glue dries.
I left the boat davits off until now to prevent them from getting broken off. Liquid cement from a squeeze bottle was used to attache them to the deck. Having them on now will be helpful for positioning the PE railings.
all and delicate, the paint must be quite thin. An Airbrush is definitely the best way to paint them, but not everyone has one. A good alternative method is to thin the paint about 50/50 and paint two coats with a brush. The light gray I used is acrylic and I've found rubbing alcohol to be a good thinner for this. Mixing one drop of rubbing alcohol with each drop of paint in a small watercolor dish works pretty good. After the paint dries I cut the detail parts needed from the frett using an exacto knife on a piece of glass.
The superstructure and guns were assembled per the instruction sheet, Squadron Green putty was used where necessary to fill seams. The smaller guns were assembled and painted while the gun bases were still on the spru tree.
raised details for more visability.
paints.
The model kit comes with an assortment of figures depicting sailors performing various tasks. Painting and mounting them on the model is a matter of individual preference. I usually complete a model with figures if it is shown as underway, or at sea. For this reason I left them off this Cutty Sark. Clipper ships are beautiful ship models , no matter how minimal or elaborately they are built. Revells’ Cutty Sark is not the kind of model that can be built quickly though. I’ve been building models for decades and I am familiar with many techniques and I have quite a few tools to use and it still took me 8 months. That said, it will build into a beautiful model if you are patient. Take your time with the rigging in particular. Some days I spent an hour and only rigged one brace, but building ship models is a hobby I enjoy, so the time spent is spent well. If you are building or thinking about building this kit, I hope this article will be helpful.
The ships boats are left off until the all the rigging is finished, otherwise they will be in the way of the belaying points for the rigging. The boat skids and davits were all painted white. The insides of the boats were painted two shades of brown. The boat exteriors were painted white with blue trim. I don’t know if the blue trim is historically accurate but it does add a bit of needed color. The oars were painted tan.
Finally, the flag. No ship model is complete without a flag. The British merchant flag or “Red Duster” was cut from the sheet and folded around a thread and glued with a drop of Elmer’s glue. 
After the glue dried I touched up the flags’ edges with red paint and rigged it to the peak of the spanker gaff
